H2 for sale  H1 for sale S3 For Sale S2 for sale S1 for sale 1969 H1 for sale KH250 For Sale KH400 For Sale  H2 for sale  H1 for sale S3 For Sale S2 for sale S1 for sale 1969 H1 for sale KH250 For Sale KH400 For Sale 

H2 for sale  H1 for sale S3 For Sale S2 for sale S1 for sale 1969 H1 for sale KH250 For Sale KH400 For Sale  H2 for sale  H1 for sale S3 For Sale S2 for sale S1 for sale 1969 H1 for sale KH250 For Sale KH400 For Sale 

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Email: kawaparts@aol.com 
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Nuthall  -  Nottingham  -   England
Phone: 0115 9131 333   Mobile: 0797 0120000 

 

Whilst the landline (0115 9131333) is still in use, it is RARELY answered -

Please use the mobile number - It costs the same to you as any mobile call - no matter where I am in the World.

If I am away in the U.S. then you can call my U.S. cell : (001) 231 499 9965  (but I will be AT LEAST 5 hours behind GMT) - Or the U.K. Mobile +44 7970120000

 

Click here to go to RB's Message board

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At the moment, we are not offering any plating services - SORRY!

 

Plating services - all that glitters . . .

If you are to ask anyone what is synonymous with the 1970’s it has to be loud colours, loud music and loud bikes . . . both in colour, engine noise and that all important gleaming chrome! Unlike the modern “plastic fantastics”, the bikes from the 70’s were very distinguishable by the vast amounts of chrome on them. Once the markets were established by the big Japanese bike manufacturers the chrome turned in the 1980’s to the cheaper “Black Chrome” variety and then in the 1990’s to the even cheaper (unless you have to replace it) plastic!

Chroming is a very misunderstood process: the public at large tend to think that it is some miraculous cover all that is just painted on... Unfortunately this is so very far from the truth. Chrome is many times thinner than paint and will not even cover the slightest blemish, from my understanding there are there are basically three types of chrome, the chrome that is used on shop fittings, the type used on exterior fittings and the chrome used in industry (on hydraulic rams etc) all chroming is done electrostatically and is basically the transfer of metal from an anode to a cathode.

The type of chrome generally used on motorbikes works well from the factory because it is applied to new unblemished metal. In the 1960’s the metal was first coated in thick copper and then chrome, as the 70’s dawned the expensive copper was dispensed with in favour of a quick flash of nickel and even thinner chrome plate. The bikes that we are restoring now have had many years exposure to the elements and often the metal is quite badly rusted. Rust is fine if it is a substantial item like a kickstart because there is a good quantity of metal to polish away at, however if it is apparent on a thin mudguard or an exhaust pipe then it can be costly to re-furbish.

To re-plate a front fender takes in three basic processes.

  1. De-grease the item and then “wire up” to begin the reversal of the chroming process and remove all the old chrome.

  2. This is the time consuming and expensive part: polish away all the rust and imperfections until the item to be chromed is so highly polished that it looks like it is already chromed! Each one of those small rust spots on the item will double or treble in size as the acid eats away the corrosion. These blemishes then have to be totally erased in the polishing process – the very worst cases would require “triple plating” this process involves polishing the metal, plating it in thicker copper, polishing the copper and then plating again with chrome.

  3. Wire the item up and start the plating process.

At RB’s we take pride in trying to replicate the original (often quite bad) factory finish on an item: items like these exhaust flanges are generally polished (by the uninitiated) to a mirror finish – whilst they can look very nice in their “show chrome” they are far from original. At RB’s we retain the original casting marks for that totally authentic finish. We are also one of the few companies that will consider re-chroming those dirty, oil- and carbon- infested two stroke exhaust pipes!

We don’t just re-furbish chrome items: zinc and zinc/passivate are also a specialty. It is quite feasible to rejuvenate a whole bike's fasteners in zinc for less than £60.00 – why “spoil the ship for ha’porth of tar”? Get those bolts re-plated!  


Talking of fasteners . . . don’t forget our “Back to original” Screw kits!
 

Re-plating the fixtures on a bike has to be the cheapest single enhancement possible. This pile of rusty, oily, filthy fittings is from an H2a and were cleaned and re-plated for around £30! 

Here are a few more examples - click the thumbnails for a bigger picture:

h1 pipe11.jpg (12923 bytes) pipe12.jpg (12543 bytes)   zincbolt 1.jpg (17279 bytes)

Quality chroming does not come cheaply -  all our work is now "Show Quality" - approximate prices for Stripping, polishing and re-plating are as follows:

Brake pedal £27.50

Gear lever £20.00 (extra for linkages)

Kickstart £32.00

Kicker Boss £8.00

Downpipes £29.50ea

Silencers £70.00 - £120.00each

Fork Stanchions £110.00pr Exchange

Front Mudguards £75.00

Obviously there are some "Gold" zinc finishes on the machines, we operate a refinishing service for these parts as well - as a rough guide a set of H2 ignition boxes will cost £40 to re-plate, we test the units before and after plating.

 
   
 

 

If you decide to send your parts to us for Zinc plating PLEASE do not beadblast them first, it is often preferable to clean them up on a wire wheel as they are less abrasive.

The plating shown below is a little brighter than average but it will dull off to the correct colour within a few weeks.